» Автопутешествие на Средний Урал

Изначально вся поездка задумывалась как поездка в Пермь к моей любимой сестре Лене, но потом, оценив сколько и какие города мы проедем, продолжительность зимних каникул, решено было останавливаться с ночевками и прогулками в Нижнем Новгороде, Казани, Ижевске, Перми, съездить в Кунгурскую ледяную пещеру и вернуться домой в Кострому через Киров, дабы сделать дорогу колечком и не ездить дважды по одним и тем же местам. Ну как обычно в общем то.

Итак.

Карта

День первый. Кострома — Ростов.    1 января 2015 года.

 

Основательно выспавшись после скромного празднования Нового года, оперативно собираем вещи и выдвигаемся в Ростов Великий поздравлять юлину сестру Машу со вторым Днем рождения. Там нас ждал радушный теплый семейный прием с пивом и шашлыками. Надарили всем подарков, сами получили не меньше. В машину все еле влезло. Накушившись до сыта ложимся спать. Завтра рано выезжать.

 

День второй. Ростов — Нижний Новгород.    2 января 2015 года.

 

Встаем рано, как и планировалось, в 7 утра. Да, поступок безумный, судя по транспортному потоку автомобилей на трассе, это подтвержается. Тихо собираемся, выезжаем. Дорога до Нижнего Новгорода мне хорошо знакома. За исключением участка Белогостицы — Иваново. Здесь еду впервые. О плохом состоянии асфальта наслышан. Помимо этого накладывается снегопад и оказывается, что дорога не только с плохим покрытием, но и сильно витиевата, как уж на сковородке. Видно что так исторически сложилось, как конь с пьяным поводырем проложил между деревнями, так и оставили. На асфальте сильная каша. Пару раз получались аварийные ситуации — когда из-за поворота выскакивала машина и не очень получалось с ней разъехаться — но все обходилось. В основном благодаря снижению средней скорости до 40..50 км/час. В результате чего эти 120 километров мы протащились за два с половиной, если не за три, часа. Дальше ничего особенного, перед Суздалем машина немного захондрила — рывки и дергание при полном газе — остановился во Владимире — купил высоковольтных проводов. Один из них у меня искрил на холодном двигателе, думал, если повторится, буду менять. Больше (пока) прецедетнов не было.

Дорога от Владимира до Нижнего Новгорода скучна и крайне неинтересна. Плюс ко всему свинцовое небо, дожд, снегопад, постоянно работающие дворники, вообщем унылое состояние погоды. Если бы не наша компания и хорошая музыка, под которую мы завывали, то были бы такие же скучные и унылые.

К Нижнему подобрались к пяти часам вечера. Долго крутились на одном месте, пытаясь найти забронированный заранее хостел. Проблема была в том, что адрес был, а в навигаторе его не было. В результате после трех или четырех попыток, мы все же позвонили и узнали где он есть. Оказалось все просто. Но не очень хорошо. Нормальной парковки нет. Номера на четвертом этаже, девушка на ресепшене оказалась не очень приветливой. Это, кстати, хостел Набережный.  Машину мы постававили у памятника Минину и Пожарскому. И все пожитки до номера тоскали на себе, что не есть хорошо. Номер кстати стоил 1500р. Хотя средняя цена по городу в эти дни — 2500р. Хоть в этом плюс. Разместившись, отправились гулять. По Нижненабережной дошли до парящего корабля, поднялись по лесенке, насчитав ровно 446 ступеней и вдоволь насладившись представившимися видами. На верху сквозной ветер и куча гуляющего народа. Но нам жарко. Холод не страшен. Заглянули в Кремль, очень скромно прикупились сувенирами — открытка и значок — и отправились на Большую Покровскую — пешеходную улицу, сродни Старому Арбату в Москве. Тщательно обфотографировав Юлю и меня вместе с каждой металлической скульптурой, кроме Козы — на очередь на нее у нас не хватило терпения — быстро нашли место для посиделки с пивом — бар джаз клуба. Там показывали концерт Андреа Бочелли — оперного певца, которого мы слушали всю дорогу — это знак, однако. За окном по Покровской бродили верблюды, а мы кушали и потягивали пивко, сидя в уютном местечке. А потом пошли домой. То бишь в наш хостел. Там перед сном забронировали самый последний вариант в Казани, кроме тех, что за десять и семнадцать тысяч русских рублей. В этот день с удовольствием прогулялся по уже излазанным местам, а Юля наконец то посмотрела старый центр Нижнего Новгорода, что давно хотела сделать. Всем понравилось. Спать.

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День третий. Нижний Новгород — Казань.    3 января 2015 года.

 

Подъем был запланирован опять на семь утра. Но в силу моей лени был отложен до 9 утра. С трудом встали, пока покушали в хостеле, пока собрались, туда-сюда, заехали на заправку, вообщем выехали из Новгорода около одиннадцати утра. Дорога до Казани разная, но в основном плохая. Особенно в Чувашии. Опять эта слякоть, опять этот снег, дождь, тучи, ни капли солнца — закрыв глаза добрались до столицы Татарстана к пяти часам дня.

В Казани навигатор совсем отказывался работать, водя нас по давно не существующим улицам вопреки транспортному потоку. С горем пополам мы на шли место. Просто поразило наличие охраняемых автостоянок практически в каждом дворе многоэтажек. За окном — сильный снегопад. Находим хостел, по сугробам пробираемся к стоянке. Ставим машину прямоу у самой сторожки. Это хорошо. Стоимость — 70р. в сутки. Очень даже недорого. Охранник очень порекомендовал сходить на какую-то елку.

Хостел Миллениум, названный очевидно в честь одноименного моста в Казани, представлял из себя обыкновенную трехкомнатную квартиру в панельном доме, где в каждой жилой комнате дверь запиралась на ключ. Квартира на 3 этаже. Как подъехали — набрали по телефону владельца, он сразу подошел, все открыл и показал нам. Обстановка очень скромная. Стоимость 1700р в сутки. Мы взяли на двое суток, как и планировали заранее. Хозяин объяснил нам как добраться до метро. Обещанный wi-fi не работал. По нашим подозрениям — из-за неуплаты. Ну это мелочи. Немного отдохнув с дороги, мы отправились «брать» Казань.

Прогулка в метро тоже была неслучайна — у Юли это было в первый раз. Наш хостел был расположен в спальном районе. Мы вышли на улицу — вокруг тихо, падал пушистый снег, все улочки были освещены. Путь до метро занимал около 20 минут пешком. Хорошая прогулка.

Метро в Казани относительно новое. А поэтому чистое и красивое. С московским не сравниться. Но периодичность прибытия электропоездов — минут пятнадцать. Это долго, хотя больше и не надо, судя по их загруженности.

Буквально две остановки — и мы в центре города. Площадь Тукая. Поскольку просмотр достопримечательностей запланирован на завтра, а сегодня мы только хотели отдохнуть в каком-нибудь баре с кальяном, старались особо ни на что не смотреть и не обращать внимания. Иногда приходилось даже отворачиваться, например проходя мимо кареты Екатерины. Мы прошли где-то до середины улицы Баумана — пешеходной главной улицы города — пока не нали подходящее место. Бар Mojo. Здесь можно и покушать и покурить кальян. Я попробовал татарскую лапшу и мясо по-татарски. Кальянщик кстати был колоритный — взрослый мужчина кавказской национальности, ну или откуда-то оттуда. Мы отлично посидели, поужинали и тем же путем вернулись назад в хостел. Завтра предстоял целый гулятельный день по столице Татарстана и в предвкушении этого мы легли спать.

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День четвертый. Казань.    4 января 2015г.

 

Итак, подъем. Не совсем ранний, точное совсем не ранний. Завтракаем кофе с бутербродами. Выдвигаемся тем же путем в центр города. На метро доезжаем до Кремля. Обзор решено было начать оттуда. Времени было около 12 часов дня.

Кремль в Казани большой. Было скользко и ветренно. Туристов много. Хотя это было воскресенье. Обычно, наверно, меньше. Интересная особенность — за кремлевкими стенами уже очень давно рядом стоят грандиозные культовые сооружения христианской и мусульманской веры — Благовещенский собор и мечеть Кул-Шариф. Собор особо сильного впечатления не произвел, поскольку мы же русские, видели десятки таких соборов. Еще и больше этого. А вот мечеть впечатляет. Четыре ее основных минарета высотой по 58 метров каждый так изящно возносятся к небу. Сооружена из белого мрамора и гранита. Внутреннее убранство и экстерьер очень богаты. Красота. Внутри мечети фотографировать можно все. В специально отведенном и огороженном уголке читается каран. Выставлено очень много интересных экпонатов. Тут же художественные галереи местных художников. Мы спустились вниз, в музей татарской культуры. Там, по стенам, развешены все страницы карана, каждая по отдельности, напечатанные на листах серебра. Сколь это могло стоить денег, остается только догадываться. Музей очень интересно раскрывает национальную культуру еще со времен Булгарского государства и практически по сей день. Посетить стоит обязательно.

Еще одним интересным сооружением в Кремле является башня Сююмбике, которая включена в список 40 падающих башен мира. Ее отклонение по вертикали составляет 2м в верхней точке. Отклонение произошло вследствии крена фундамента, который в данный момент зафиксирован. И легенд вокруг нее ходит немало. И с датировкой постройки также проблемы.

По полной затарившись сувенирами везде, где только возможно, мы выходим из Кремля. Время к обеду. Отправляемся в кафе IQ на ул. Баумана. Это тематическое кафе с как бы интеллектуальным оформлением. Все стены зала заполнены полками с книгами и журналами, которые можно свободно брать и читать. Здесь я так же отведал местной кухни. А потом даже купил книжку с секретами татарской кухни.

Следующие несколько часов мы болтались по улице Баумана и окрестностям центра Казани. Фотографировались со всевозможными памятниками и скульптурами, зашли на новогодние гуляния в парк 1000-летия Казани, который был подарен городу северной столицей — Санкт-Петербургом. Уже давно стемнело, мы вернулись на Баумана, нашли уютненькое местчечко с пивом, пиццей и кальяном. Отличное завершение вечера. После такого вот ужина отправились по натоптанной тропе домой, то бишь в наш хостел. Ложимся спать. Завтра — дорога в Ижевск.

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День пятый. Казань — Ижевск.    5 января 2015г.

 

Проснулись не совсем рано, как планировали, но и не совсем поздно. Собрались, немного позавтракали и отправились в путь. При выезде из Казани, машина опять закопризничала с той же проблемой — рывки, провалы тяги при открывании газа. Уже ближе к Елабуге дела стали совсем скверно. Машина глохла на ходу. Симптомы ухудшились. Сворачиваем в городок Мамадыш. Весь Мамадыш завален снегом. С большим трудом находим наверно единственный рабочий в это время в этом городе автосервис с трезвым механиком. Меняем высоковольтные провода. Как же хорошо, что я ими запасся заранее! Тут бы их точно было не найти. Все хорошо, симптомы исчезли — значит дело было в них. Возвращаемся на трассу. Дело близилось к Удмуртии — неизведанной доселе мной областью. В Елабуге уходим с федеральной трассы. Дорога на Ижевск уже не такая широкая, прямая и ровная. Она уже узкая, извилистая, с множеством населенных пунктов, и не совсем ровная. Ну и заснеженная, конечно. Но 90..100 км/ч держать вполне можно. А большего мне и не нужно, особо никуда не торопимся. Проезжаем стеллу с гордой надписью «Удмуртия». Фотографируемся. Вот этот случай, когда мы воспользовалсь штативом. За всю жизнь их можно пересчитать по пальцам. Немного дальше останавливаемся на обеденный перекус кофем из термоса и бутербродиками. Дальнейшая дорога до Ижевска достаточно однообразна. Но не скучна. Постоянные извилистые участки заставляли все время быть на чеку. При подъезде к Ижевску уже темнело.

Поначалу казалось, что весь город — один большой частный сектор. Не было видно никаких многоэтажек. Но ближе к центру они стали появляться. Навигатор здесь работал исправно. Без проблем подвел нас к гостинице в центральной части города. Она также была расположена в жилом многоквартирном доме. Но попадя внутрь, мы с удивлением обнаружили, что это была настоящая гостиница, а не просто квартира. Все акуратненько отделано современными материалами, хорошая обстановка, новая мебель, и так далее. Скинув вещи и осмотрев номер, мы сразу отправились осматривать город.

До центра было пять минут пешком. Это очень близко. Поднялись по широкой, но занесенной снегом лестнице вверх, лицезрея сзади стелу Дружбы народов. Кстати в интернетах не раз встречал информацию о том, что удмурты очень гордятся тем, что входят в состав Российской Федерации. Так ли это на самом деле, сказать не могу. Далее прошли мимо веселящегося народа к музею Калашникова. Народу на улицах и в самом деле очень много, видимо затяжные гуляния здесь дело обычное. И дети, и их родители катаются с ледяных горок, на катке, на всяких атракционах, коих превеликое множество, лазают по ледяным скульптурам. вообщем отдыхают по полной. Сам музей произвел большое впечатление и очень понравился. Мы посетили экспозицию, посвященную судьбе и жизни самого Калашникова, начиная от его родителей и мест, где он появился на свет, и заканчивая нашими днями. Кстати сам музей был построен и открыт еще при жизни великого конструктора. Это большая редкость. После музея зашли в интересный антикварный магазинчик, погуляли по городу, нашли памятник крокодилу Гене. Мне город понравился. Тем, что здесь нет широких и шумных магистралей, а есть спокойные и тихие красивые улочки. Все чисто и опрятно. Цены невысокие, народ не заносчивый. Город чем-то напомнил мне Кострому. Вечер мы завершили в уютном английском пабе, отведав вкусных мясных блюд с отменным пивом. И отправились в номер спать.

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День шестой. Ижевск — Пермь.    6 января 2015г.

 

Вполне так выспавшись, мы попрощались с гостиницой и выехали из Ижевска, предварительно заехав на памятник Пельменю. Ведь вообще пельмени появились в Удмуртии, там им честь и хвала.

Весь день шел снег, дороги были сильно занесены. Ехали медленно и акуратно. В Удмуртии дороги расчищены. Двигались почти без остановок — только заправки и пара раз перекусить. В Пермь прибыли часов в шесть вечера. Сразу к моей любимой сестренке. Нас ждал очень теплый прием и долгожданная встреча с родными людьми. Весь вечер мы общались, рассказывая друг другу о всех произошедших событиях в жизни. Так здорово, что на таком расстоянии от дома, есть место, где тебе снова рады и ждут. Это очень важно в моей жизни.

Узнав о надвигающихся морозах, я почему-то поверил синоптикам и снял на ночь аккумулятор.

 

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День седьмой. Пермь — Кунгур — Пермь.    7 января 2015г.

 

Утром, вдоволь выспавшись, мы отправились в Кунгур посмотреть Ледяную пещеру.

На улице было -26ºС или около того. Аккумулятор не зря снимал, так бы наверно не завелся. От Перми до Кунгура километров восемьдесят. И все это время небо было кристально чистое и ярко светило солнце. Дорога прямая. До пункта назначения \добрались достаточноблагодаря нашему навигатору.

Рядом с пещерой организован целый комплекс — там и гостиница, и катания на горных лыжах, сноуборде и снегоходах. Также кафе и палатки с сувенирами. По удачному стечению обстоятельств мы попали на последний сеанс, сглупили, что не посмотрели режим работы заранее на сайте.

Первые несколько метров пещеры проходи по табурам-шлюзам — они сделаны для поддержания устойчивой температуры в пещере. Нам попался хороший гид, который с увлеченностью и интересом рассказывал о каждом уголке это пещеры. Столько информации выдал, что и половины не запомнишь. Но слушать было очень интересно. Пещера состоит из нескольких взаимосвязанных гротов — каждый своеобразен и по-своему красив. В каких-то были летучие мыши, а в каких-то ледяные скульптуры, где-то была потрясающая подсветка, а где-то сидел затворник-отшельник. В одном из гротов стояла уже целый год живая зеленая елка — микроклимат пещеры был ей благоприятен. Нам показывали абсолютную темноту, когда выключался весь свет и не было ничего видно, даже собственной ладони, поднесенной к лицу. Поразили подземные озера с кристально чистой, словно зеркало водой. Они отражали невероятный рельеф окружающих стен грота и иногда казалось, будто снизу не вода, а глубокая пропасть. В пещере все оборудовано — и проходы, и дорожки, и освещение. Нам рассказали, что в честь Перми был назван целый период жизни нашей планеты — Пермский. А горным породам, сохранившимся с того времени — более 300 миллионов лет. Внушительно. Вообще вся экскурсия длилась более часа и пролазали мы по пещере полтора километра. Целый мешок впечатлений и сувениров увезли с собой. Это потрясающее зрелище стоило того!

Потом мы вернулись в Пермь. Температура опустилась до -32ºС. Лена показала нам некоторые интересности города — памятник водопроводчику, Пермяк — соленые уши, большую букву П из бревен и другие. Короткими вылазками из машины на пару минут мы умудрялись сфотографироваться и не окоченеть от холода. В наших краях такую погоду не часто увидишь. Вечером я опять утащил аккумулятор домой.

Вечером мы опять сидели и болтали в компании большого белого кошака. Время пролетело незаметно. Утром мы собирались в Кострому, а Лена с друзьями в Екатеринбург.

 

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День восьмой. Пермь — Шарья.    8 января 2015г.

 

Встаем рано, по будильнику. Долгота дня очень маленькая, засветло хочется проехать как можно больше. Завтракаем кофе с печенками, ставлю аккумулятор, грею полчаса машину. Сентиментальные прощания с сестрой, обнимашки, пожелания друг другу удачной дороги, сидим «на дорожку» и выдвигаемся в путь.

Выдвинулись решительно, но на полосу с односторонникм движением — туда куда повел навигатор, а знака там вроде не было. По всем известым законам навстречу ехал экипаж ДПС. Поучительная беседа в их машине, мольбы не лишать меня прав на полгода. Вроде помогло. Выезжаем из Перми.

Двигаемся до Игры по уже известной дороге, потом уходим на Глазов. Дорога не интересная, пейзаж однообразный. До границы с Кировской областью. Там нас ждал жуткий грейдер без асфальта по лесу. Уж не знаю, что там творится по весне, когда все тает, наверно дикая каша. Но в данный момент это была очень неприятная дорога. В подвеске что-то закончилось и я услышал характерные поскрипывания на кочках. Спустя километров тридцать, вновь появился асфальт. В Кировской области, как и в Костромской, мало хороших дорог. И съездить туда стоит. Один раз. Чтобы знать, что больше не стоит. К шести часам вечера добрались до Кирова. Сказать про него ничего не могу, так как ехали по объездной, кроме того, что на всех заправках не работали банковские карты. Пришлось искать банкоматы. После Кирова хорошая, но извилистая дорога на Котельнич. А потом в сторону Костромской области. Вокруг леса и темнота.

В Шарью приехали часов в одиннадцать вечера. Спать я не хотел и можно было совершить решительный бросок через Костромскую область ночью, покрыв расстояние от Перми до Костромы за сутки, но решено было остановиться и поспать. Что мы и сделали но в жутко холодной гостинице. Спали в верхней одежде и все равно замерзли. Там было не намного теплее, чем на улице.

 

IMG_1028       IMG_1020

 

День девятый. Шарья — Кострома.    9 января 2015г.

 

Оперативно встав с кровати в 7 утра, в 7:20 мы уже сидели в прогретой машине. Это было намного теплее, чем в гостинице. Почти всю дорогу до Костромы Юля проспала. И хорошо, потому что смотреть там было нечего. Дороги плохие, деревни пустые, города маленькие, бедные и серые, везде разруха.

При подъезде к Костроме на меня как снежный ком накатились и вспомнились все мои дела по работе, что нужно сделать, что не закончено и все такое. Во время поездки обо всем этом не думаешь. Другие цели, совсем другие проблемы. И так не хочется возвращаться к обычной жизни. Но что поделать… По другому никак. Пока.

 

Вот так и получилась наша новогодне-рождественская поездка до Среднего Урала и обратно. В общем около 3200 км. Бензина не знаю сколько. Не считал. Много интересных мест, много пищи для размышления. Это был мой первый опыт длительного зимнего автопутешествия. На машине определенно можно и нужно путешествовать. Зимой. И далеко. Надеюсь, еще соберусь, благо мест для этого предостаточно.

 

Еще больше фотографий можно посмотреть в медиагалерее 

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